By relay enclosure / housing, I meant the plastic Orbit enclosure of the pump start relay that you are installing next to the rachio enclosure. There is no reason to open / make changes to the pump itself.
No need to terminate / hide unused cable next to your valves, simply leave it not stripped and wrap it around the cable to move it out of the way.
Theres that too.
But yeah I’m removing the mechanical timer guts and just screwing the relay in there like you suggested. But first i’ll try to see if I can remove the mechanical box completely and fit the orbit box in its place with the conduit already there (but I doubt it without a lot of work)
yea, save yourself the trouble, simply drill a small hole near the bottom of the old timer enclosure in order to allow the irrigation wire from the controller to enter. In this case I suggest you run separate cables to the relay and the valves. Having the valve wire follow the conduit to the pump is a good idea, there should not be enough interference to cause any issues.
Yeah gonna run conduit from rachio to the top of the box just to have space from the other two holes. Will route all the cables necessary from rachio to relay and rachio to vales through that, then have a separate exit to go to the valves from mechanical.
Actually might just get some more conduit for the small hole on racio where power goes for the relay cables. Then use big hole for the valves
Many ways to skin this cat, looking forward to how it will turn out. 
In the interest of keeping the thread unbroken I’m replying to your comment here
You can cut the pipe midway to the ground and install a twist union, so that in the future the repairs are easier:
You will likely need to make two cuts per valve, so that at the end you can completely remove the valve and fix the leak.
Unscrew the cut peace from the valve and reinstall it using the sealant, it is easier to apply generously and not worry about breaking the union:
I have a purple primer and and cement package one. I will google that so I can see how to do it better. As for the part with the cut off, cut and replace completely? But this time use sealant for the screw part?
You can fix the cut with new Union
Sealant is not a replacement for cement, use it in place of tape
Not for the valves but where the cut off knob ball thing is. Those are are screwed and barely any room. Probably gonna cut and replace the pipes leading into that and find a screw glue.
Yeah that side I get. I’m talking about this part. it goes from ball to a screw adapter reducer from 1 1/2 to 1 1/4
Sorry, misunderstood where it was leaking. Is that the only place?
Any part that I used a screw adapter with teflon type tape. So valves and where the ball is. Going to just remove and see if there is a straight pipe fix. Unless you recommend something
Cutting midway to the spigot from the valve would allow you to disconnect the whole assembly, in case you are making the other cuts as well. Valve can then be unscrewed without additional cut between assembly and the valve.
How big of a leak do you have? Is it dripping or flowing?
Dripping, all 4. The siphon pipes easy to do, it said 6” from sprinkler or floor and i made sure to have more incase i needed cut. The ball is gonna be the tough part lol.
Also the siphons were closed, not sure how to open them manually, there’s the flow knob which i assumed was all the way open and there is the part that unscrews with the cables, do you know which allows water to flow?
So it could drip due to the pressure?
Yes, normally the system would not be under the full pressure, so the leak will be much less (if at all). Also, depending on how clean your water is that you are pumping out, the leaks will get clogged up.
Valve(s) can be opened by turning the part with the wires (solenoid). CCW to turn ON, CW to turn back off.
So should I test again rn with the solenoid open and how open should I turn them? To see if it leaks?
Simply turn until the water starts flowing (sprinklers pop up). The water itself does not flow through the solenoid, so you only need to turn enough for the actual mechanism to turn on.
So i’ll test rn.
