No worries @emil. His shop ended up ordering the wrong parts for him, so I’m waiting to hear back from him on a new install date.
Why do you need a plumber if you’re using the SharkBite fittings? Those are expensive so that you can DIY. If you’re paying for a plumber then have him sweat everything on with copper couplings - much cheaper.
Would I still be able to rotate the unit and would I be able to replace it on my own later? I’m just looking for him to do this install, then I could make a swap later if I had a problem.
@nmstough - I’m not sure the flow meter has copper ends, plus with parts of the flow meter being non-metallic I wouldn’t want the heat from sweating to melt the non-metallic parts if the heat from sweating traveling down the pipe. Additionally, Rachio doesn’t recommend any solvent or glue as that could get on the measurement components or add turbulence to the water flow if any residue projects into the pipe. And as @azdavidr points out, the back side of the flow meter will need to be accessible to change the batteries - either as installed or pivoting around on the Sharkbites, etc.
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They’re not copper. Thanks for the input @DLane. I do quite a bit of DIY stuff around the house but I get intimidated when it comes to copper pipes, thus the plumber. 
By the way, why does one need to rotate the unit to change the batteries? Why not install it with the battery cover facing outward to begin with?
@nmstough - my unit will be underground and I think that would put the transmitter farther underground with more signal attenuation. Plus there is the green light on top that one may need to look at for connectivity or issues. In the above installation, it could probably be positioned where both sides were accessible without the need to rotate the device. If so, then it would come down to aesthetics, i.e. would one want to look at the side or the top or the bottom of the unit the most.
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Emil did come out and fix my error. All is working fine now, and will post picture shortly. A massive thanks to Rachio and Emil for great customer support, service and working directly with a customer in the field. We had a great discussion / chat as I am a techy geek as well working for over 30 years in IT, so all keen on any new initiatives based on the user product suggestions going forward I see posted on the community site. WELL DONE KEEP IT UP.
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Attached is a final picture of my 3/4 main feed and attaching the flow meter to 3/4’’ copper with 1’ Copper either side. All works great so far.
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Why do you need that piece of 1" copper underneath the flow meter? That just makes it more expensive and prone to leakage.
@nmstough, I’m not sure if you saw my reply in this thread, but you’ll need to either reconnect to the original 3/4" copper pipe, or replace the copper below the back flow with PVC – like this:
The 1 inch underneath is so I do not use a 1inch to 3/4 inch ball valve (Ball valves have a smaller pass through than the 3/4 Copper) as my supply is 3/4 Copper. Eventually, I will replace the 3/4 inch supply before the valve box to 1 inch Copper, so that will negate me having the 1 inch to 3/4 inch Sharkbite reducer.
I could also replace the fittings like the picture above using 1 inch PVC to valve box…(little more work and probably not for every home owner to do)…
Why not use a 1"x3/4" reducing coupler to go from the flow meter to the 3/4" copper pipe? Then you dont have the ball valve and you have the full flow through?
I’m going to be installing my meter in the next couple of days and was wondering how critical it is to use the Sharkbite brand of coupling. I went to my local plumbing supply store and they carry Tectite vs. Sharkbite. I’ve included a picture of the package and the inside of the coupling. It says use with CU/CPVC/PEX and the store said it should work. I have my doubts, though, so please let me know.
Thanks!
@nmstough
Because a 1" PVC X 3/4" CTS (Copper Tube Size) SharkBite reducing coupler does not exist, hence the recommendation to use that 25551LFball valve 
