Your ideal watering schedule


#1

Assuming no major rain (but not drought) and summer temps what is your ideal watering schedule (freq and duration)? Please include other relevant data like type of grass, location, etc.

I live in North Florida and it seems like 20-40 min every 3-4 days is just enough to keep my centipede/Bermuda/Bahia out of dormancy. Its been 90-95 every day here with very scattered tstorms. Flex comes real close to this on average but I am thinking of upping it to every other day (its nice having a well sometimes)


#2

Bermuda, clay loam mixture of slopes.
Atlanta ga.
I water for 18 minutes on each turf zone.
My drips I have now scaled back to 45 minutes 2 times a week (will scale back after establishment to 1 hour once a week).

My head to head coverage is out of control. Each head reaches their adjacent head.

I core aerate every spring and I verticut every 4 weeks.

Precip rate form my zones are 1.5 inch. Hope this helps. I personal would not water your Bermuda every other day. I have tried this and it can cause massive fungal outbreak when your evening temps start to get down to low 70’s high 60’s.


#3

What frequency are you watering? I know it varies but humor me.

For the fungus, I’ve got some Headway G waiting and ready.


#4

Every 5-7 days. With flexies it is usually 5-6. When I was running my pos controller it was 7 days. But, I use growth regulator so you get a deeper root so it can extract more water.

Yea, heritage g is the bomb, I use it when I need to but you need to alternate between different groups or you can end up with resistant fungi. Heritage is in group 11 which block 2 different biochemical sites so it is less likely to cause shifts, but you have to treat 2 times in a row (as you know)'so I also try to work in daconil when I can.

Edit: not trying to patronize you dental pain, just leaving this info for other ppl to pick up and research for clarity.


#5

Also worth noting, when using trinex (growth regulator), you get a very dense stand of turf that grows laterally which acts as a moisture barrier, in fact a little too well, hence the verticutting. If you like I can send some pics of what this looks like tomorrow when I get home. It is a very cool hormone blocker.

It is well worth the $300 bux up front cost to get into…


#6

Unfortunately, when you have 5 acres…3+ in grass things don’t cost $300. I’ve spent $600 on milorganite this year and that was at $7 a bag. Add that to $300 for K-mag and I’m at my annual lawn limit. Dont tell my lovely wife about the herbacides, prodiamine pre-emerg, headway G, etc, etc. Oh I bought a core plug aerator this summer too. For reference, mowing takes 2.5 hours at 9 mph with a Hustler 60" fastrak HD (but I love it).


#7

Do you have a lot of shade from trees in your yard?
The reason I’m asking is that my son lives in Sandy Springs and he has his Rachio set to run every 3rd day for an average of 20 minutes set to warm season grass, silly clay, mixture of slopes. This was said by his landscaper. Result dead lawn.
Are you able to help me or give me some recommendations that I can pass along to him.
Thank you :wink:


#8

Yes would love to, would like some pics though. If trees are casting shade, it is most likely Bermuda decline. If the tree is a big tree, it is amazing how much water their root system will dry out the ground, and quickly.
You can also reach me at plainsane at gmail dot com. I really need pictures.


#9

Well I mean a gallon costs 300 and treats about 30 acres. And it slows it growth To about 50% while increasing the color. You can slow it more but you get a golden color


#10

I will have pics for you tonight he has Fescue in the back where there is more shade and Bermuda in the front. But picture tell a thousand words I was surprised that he he shared his app I was not able to see his moisture screen at all and his app only works on the the phone. I changed his his weather station to a WPS 1 mile away because he had one 5 miles away.


#11

I read their PDF, but the list of suitable turf grasses leaves me out to dry
Common couch
 Hybrid couch
 Kikuyu
 Bentgrass
 Carpetgrass
 Couch varieties
(Greenlees Park, Wintergreen, Santa Anna)
 Buffalograss
 Fescue
 Perennial Ryegrass


#12

Yes! Our micro climates are frustrating. I’m getting a pws this winter as it rains here but not a mile down the road or vise verses far too often. I’m chomping at the bit to get the new ifttt triggers so I can impose a 48 hour delay if my external rain sensor trips.


#13

If you are referring to growth regulator, make sure you are looking at http://www.syngentacropprotection.com/pdf/labels/scp937al1g1109.pdf

If you are referring to daconil, it doesn’t carry a turf label, the active ingredient is chlorothalonil so get any concentrate and follow the label by disease type using the max application of all crop types, meaning if beans require more volume than tomatoes for leaf spot, go with the higher amount. Most all turfs have a very resilient epidermis so it is not as prone to phytotoxicity as most plants. Thismis topical not systemic so it is even harder to cause damage. Here is the concentrate label http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/msds/Garden%20Tech%20Daconil%20Fungicide%20Conc%20Label.pdf
But do not put either of these out with a dial and spray or similar method. A boom sprayer is needed, like this attached to your favorite back pack http://www.amazon.com/Chapin-6-7781-3-Nozzle-Poly-Boom/dp/B006Y850A2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1438828854&sr=8-4&keywords=Boom+sprayer.