Intermatic Mechanical Timer Replace :)


#22

Just in case, add a pressure gauge (link) to your list, you should be able to find 1.25 inch PVC to 1/4-inch NPT converter in your Lowes, maybe a gauge as well (make sure it goes to at least 60 PSI).

This will give you a hint if your yard is getting properly watered (pressure within reasonable limits)


#23

Lol I’m at Home Depot now buying the fuse box and pipes and valves :joy:


#24

One more advice, get flexible irrigation plumbing to go between the valves and different zones. You will save yourself a lot of headache with relatively little additional expanse. This is perhaps the first thing I would change, given a chance to do it over. Having many different junctions while trying to get PVC pipe to go where you need will give an additional chance for failure / leakage and after you glue everything, leaks are hard to repair.

Something like this (link), you can find something like this at home depot / lowes, also look for a matching clamps (link)


#25

On fuses and fuse ratings. The oversize might be due to motor starting current being much higher than the run current shown. If you under fuse you risk having intermittent fuse failures. Might not happen right away as the fuse will weaken each time you start the pump. What you really want is a fuse that will blow at locked rotor (i.e. the pump will not turn) so 30 amps might be right. Also, there are different types of fuses for motor protection vs household that are more forgiving of this high start current. Suggest you check your local codes or friendly electrician.

Found this table from Bussman.

On page 10 you will find a table “115Vac Single-Phase Motors & Circuits (110-120Vac Systems)” which shows correct fuse types and sized for single phase motors.


#26

Ok Gene I think I’m about to start wiring this monster tomorrow and I hope get some advice on how to wire it from my panel to the rachio system, do you mind give me a hand again :wink: if you don’t mind we can do some FaceTime or I can give you my phone…
Attached some pics

The last 2 breakers (20) are the ones going outside to the pump


#27

@rmadrid20 - first off the disclaimer, I’m not a licensed electrician.

From the looks of it your pump is running in the 230 VAC configuration. And the screw in fuses are a higher rating than the circuit breaker. Did you get a pump start relay that can handle 230 VAC?

The Rachio device only needs 120 VAC for it’s plug. Do you have an open spot on your circuit breaker panel for another breaker to power the outlet for the Rachio unit?

What is your question?


#28

I think there’s one spot open but really really tiny, also I bought this

Thanks for your help by the way


#29

@rmadrid20 - yep that’s a spot for the half size breakers that are just above it. I’d put in a new circuit just for the Rachio unit, as I hate putting noisy motors with electronics. Not sure how easy it will be to run the wire from the panel to outside. With the power cut to the pump motor and if that wiring is in conduit one may be able to run a fish tape through and then pull the new wire(s).


#30

Really easy the fuse box its on the other side of the breaker panel, i just need help on how to wire this thing and how to do the half size circuit just for the rachio


#31

@rmadrid20 - First the circuit breaker. After you turn off the master breaker to de-engergize the entire panel, the circuit breaker just drops in place. It will have a lip that you will place the outside edge under and then snap it down over the prong that is visible. A black wire goes to the tail end of the circuit breaker and a white wire to the neutral bar. Those are the two wires you need for the Rachio to work. The circuit breakers are specific to the panel, so get the right GE ones.

I need to look up with wiring instructions for the Square D disconnect switch.

For the Orbit Pump start relay, the hot wires coming from the disconnect switch will go to the wires labeled L1 In and L2 In. There will be a white neutral wire that will go straight through.


#32

Yep, @DLane is right. We are not electricians, so take everything with a grain of salt. He is also right about you using a 220V service, meaning that we have to figure out something for 110V power supply requirement of your Rachio.

As far as I see, we have two options:

  1. (easier option) Install your Rachio indoors, not far from a regular 110V power socket. You can avoid the need for outdoor enclosure and would only need to drill a small hole to let out control wires.
  2. Run an additional neutral cable from the ground bar of your internal breaker box (that is the row of screws to which all of the other white cables connect to).

Let me know your preference and we’ll go from there. Not sure how much time I have to help you over the phone / facetime this weekend (going on a trip), but I will be checking in from time to time and help if I can.

Gene


#33

I’ve made a mock up of how the outdoor wiring may look like, I’ve routed everything via the relay box to make conduits easier.

Let us know if you have any questions.
Gene


#34

Oh, and now that I know a bit better your setup and how close your internal breaker box is. You could use a simpler service disconnect (link) instead of the full fledged outdoor breaker box.

Wiring diagram will be practically the same, it just the outdoor box will not feature another a second breaker.


#35

@rmadrid20 - since the outside of the house is stucco, check the WiFi signal strength where you want to install the Rachio to make sure there is a strong enough WiFi signal there. There is a metal lathe behind the stucco that can act as a Faraday cage and block the WiFi signal. If there is a low WiFi signal strength outside where the original/desired location to install the Rachio is, then I would follow @Gene 's comment and install the Rachio unit on the inside with running the low voltage wires (common, zones and pump) through a separate small hole to get them outside (seal up the hole).


#36

No problem guys don’t worry about the electrician title hehe you guys are a really good help and we are doing good. I bought the breaker and I’m going to add a 110 circuit tomorrow next to the panel and I’ll put the rachio inside the house. I’ll post some pics tomorrow :wink:

Now I will need help with the pump start relay and the fuse box, thanks a lot guys


#37

So I don’t need this one no more?


#38

Yes, I did not know that a standard breaker box was just on the other side of the wall, a simpler service disconnect is all you need. It has similar openings and should be a good fit.


#39

Ok I’ll go tomorrow to homedepot to return the one i have and buy a service disconnect box


#40

@rmadrid20 - you want some type of disconnect out by the pump so that when working on the pump electricity one can disconnect it out there and not have someone flip the circuit breaker back on. The QO200TR will work or as @Gene said simple pull out disconnect. As HD lists the QO200TR for ~$17 and a pull out disconnect for ~$8, I’m not sure I’d take the time to swap them out.

Per the terrific diagram that Gene posted, the black wires coming from the circuit breaker panel will go into one side of the disconnect box. I couldn’t find a picture of the actual connections, so I’m flying blind, but look for terminals labeled Line 1 and Line 2. On the other side of the disconnect switch, Load 1 and Load 2, connect those to the L1 in and L2 in (I think they are black) wires for the pump start relay. The L1 out and L2 out (I think they are red) wires go to the actual pump. It shouldn’t matter which wire goes to L1 or L2 or the pump terminals as they both carry current.

Finally, the MV/P and C(ommon) wires from the Rachio ports are connected to the blue 24 VAC wires in the pump start relay. It doesn’t matter which wire goes to which on the 24 VAC circuit.


#41

110 for the rachio is installed, i had an issues with the sprinklers on the front of the house so this is how far I’ve been gone on the wiring topic…