First thing to know, soil moisture is a function of your allowed depletion level, and field capacity of the soil. 0% soil moisture means that you have hit your allowed depletion level. 100% (actual upper limit is 110%) means that your soil really can’t hold any additional water and is at field capacity. It doesn’t mean that your actual soil moisture if measured with a meter is 100%, because that would mean you had a literal lake in your yard…
As to not get too messy, lets start with grass first, as it is actually going to be a bit easier (IMHO). I personally always create a drip schedule and grass schedule separately. There are a couple features such as cycle soak that won’t function properly if you mix the 2 irrigation types. Plus, this allows you to run the grass in the early morning hours to avoid evaporation, and run drip in the middle of the day since there is little to no concern of evaporation and gives the plants a drink of water in the heat of the day.
What type of sprinklers do you have in your lawn (make/model/nozzle configuration), and what setting do you have in Rachio for inches per hour? The canned PR (Precipitation Rate - inches per hour) for the various nozzle types in Rachio are not always the most accurate. No fault of Rachio since there are dozens of manufacturers with dozens of models of the same type of sprinkler, all with different PR’s. I’ve found those numbers to be about average across the board…you mention rotary nozzles. I use Hunter MP Rotators, and I’ve checked my actual PR, and I put down about .55"-.60"/hr. Pretty darn close to their spec sheets, so unless you want to do a catch cup test on your zones, using the manufacturer spec sheets gets your darn close.
Next, make sure your soil type is set up correctly. There is a geo website where you can put in your address and return the soil type in the area. Assuming you didn’t bring in a ton of non-native top soil to build up your yard, it should be pretty accurate. This setting determines how fast moisture drains off, and how often Rachio needs to replenish.
Next, crop type. What type of grass do you have? Warm or cool season? Make sure this is set up correctly as it can drastically change the crop coefficent, meaning how quickly the grass uses water based on weather.
Next, root depth. This is my opinion on the matter, but I’ve been running Rachio for 8 years, and set up dozens of friends and family units, plus helped a number of people on here…If you watered for short bursts 7 days a week, chances are your roots are pretty shallow so they’ve never had to reach deep for water. This doesn’t promote a “healthy” lawn, which is why Rachio does longer, less frequent waterings. But, making a drastic change right off the bat, especially heading into summer months can really stress your lawn out, so it can be a good idea to set root depth on the more shallow side, like 3-4". This will prompt the system to water a bit more often.
Sun exposure is pretty easy to figure out, but honestly, unless the grass is in shade more than half the day, I find full sun is the best setting.
Slopes only function is to determine if the zone needs a cycle soak to eliminate runoff.
Otherwise, leave any additional advanced settings alone for now. Any changes you made above will dynamically change things like crop coefficient, available water, etc.
Once you have things set up, Flex Daily will dynamically adjust all the time based on weather patterns. You won’t see notifications of a rain skip or anything since it technically doesn’t skip, it adjusts.