I love these questions!
Being in Fort Worth, my hunch is root depth is closer to 9 inches then 6 inches. In colder climates grass roots don’t get too much further than 6 inches. Where you live 9 inches is the “default”.
I usually recommend increasing/decreasing the crop coefficient (how efficiently the crop is evaporating water) as the easiest lever since it doesn’t affect the zone duration. Increasing crop coefficient closer to 100% will make you water more frequently, decreasing (burning off less water) will make you run less frequently. But that’s usually for fine tuning. In your case I’d try bumping up the root zone depth which will increase the size of your bucket. This will also add minutes to the zone since it will want to deep water more, but less frequently.
It’s a fairly simple equation.
management allowed depletion * available water capacity (derived from soil) * root zone depth (derived from crop type) = size of zone bucket.
In your case .5×.15X5.5 = .41 inches.
From there we only have a few other variables. Each day evapotranspiration (ET) happens which subtracts from your zone bucket. Irrigation and precipitation add to your bucket. So if ET is .2 inches one day and .25 inches the next day (.2 + .25 = .45inches), you are depleted and we will run. Precipitation will offset us running since it fills your bucket, as well as irrigation.
I always recommend starting with one zone, getting a feel for everything, then applying to others if you like the way it behaves. If not we have flexible monthly which is very predictable and adjusts once a month, or normal fixed schedules where you still get all the advantages of our weather intelligence features.
Hope this helps.