That 3rd zone it’s covering 6 sprinklers on the south side of the house and this is the progress she far, I’m so tired but I’m close to finish, I think the fuse box and the relay is tomorrow and we will be done guys
@rmadrid20 - looks great! Hopefully this will help/encourage others to de-install their indexing valve system. I don’t expect the disconnect and the pump relay to give you any fits after what you’ve done so far.
Don’t think so either, I’ll follow the muck up you sent me, if I have any question you’ll se a post, any ways I’ll keep you updated with pics
Very well done! Looks great
Which valve box did you buy, I really like yours @Gene
I guess I’m not the only one burning the midnight oil
I’ve used a Valve base from Orbit (link) with a “standard” Valve Box (link). Keep in mind that a standard box will likely be too tall for the depth of your valves. Most stores will carry other valve boxes that may fit the Orbit base but are not as tall, such as this one from Lowes (link).
I’ve also bought some loose stone (as cheap as I could find) to put underneath to aid drainage (and keep the vales hopefully dry).
P.S. If you go back and look at my install (link), you will notice that originally I was planning on using a smaller box (first two pictures), but had to switch to a larger box at the end (next to the last picture).
@rmadrid20 - on the pump start relay I think the L1 In and L2 In wires are both red. Those should connect to the two wires coming from the disconnect. I think one of the wires coming from the disconnect is actually connected to the L2 Out wire. The L1 Out and L2 Out wires are both black and I think they should be connected to the wires going to the pump.
The 24Vac blue wires will be connected to the Rachio M/P and C(ommon) ports.
This is based on visual observation, as I don’t have the instruction manual for the pump start relay.
You are on a roll
One thing I would like to check is the gauge of the wire connecting your outdoor breaker with the relay box. Look for “AWG” with a number next to it on the cable, ideally it should be AWG #14 or less (such as #12).
Also, considering that you are not using a neutral / ground wire within the relay box itself. I would trim / cut it off as to prevent accidental shorting with something else. Don’t worry about the red/black wire colors within the relay box, what you have now should work (relay doesn’t care what is output and what is input with AC voltage).
@rmadrid20 - as that is @Gene 's drawing I’ll let him opine. I’m a KISS guy, I match “in” with “in” and “out” with “out”. As someone might come behind you on this effort, they might be surprised with “hot” power on the “out” connection. The instructions that I saw said to connect incoming power to the “in” connections and the pump to the “out” connections. And +1 on Gene’s comments regarding trimming the neutral/ground wire and the wire size.
I agree with @DLane, if you can make the change now, it’s better be safe than sorry. The reason it appears on the drawing as such is because it was easier to draw that way. The way you have it (matching the drawing) will work without a problem, but as @DLane mentioned, may cause confusion in the future.
Need to clean the area and attach some cables to the wall but it’s working, any special settings in the app I should know?
As I’ve mentioned before, you may want to check that an option to minimize water hammer (link) is turned ON, other than that it sounds like you have your master valve/pump enabled correctly (otherwise it would not work).
You’ll want to find a good PWS station near you, here is some description (link) on how to do so via weather underground if existing stations in your area do not have a good rainfall data.
Good job! Make sure to post final pictures after cleanup Others in your situation may also appreciate if you could provide an estimate on how much your renovation has cost (if you don’t mind sharing).
Call me old fashioned, but even though it may be unnecessary I’d be terminating that ground wire around one of those silver screws in the middle that appear to hold the relay in the box.
I cut off the ground cable
After doing some cleaning this is the final product, the cost I will say was minimum just the rachio unit pvc pipes, the elbows, the pvc glue oh and the fuse box and the relay I would say around 300$ which is totally worth it to me, its clean and I can control it from anywhere, thanks to all that helped me in this process
@rmadrid20 - looks great! Nice and neat, much better than the prior configuration. Good job.
Looks great @rmadrid20! Thanks for sharing you experience, this is awesome!
Hello fellow South Floridians! I’m a Rachio Certified Pro installer here in Weston. You CAN use the Rachio with an indexing valve when you trick the software into using a “cycle and soak” in between zones. Set it for 1 minutes and assuming your indexing valve is working right that pause will allow your valve to switch to the next zone when the schedule resumes. That said, I HATE indexing valves and replace them with individual zone valves whenever the budget permits. And since your not too far away from me, curious what SOIL TYPE you have chosen? Most of the homes I service are listed as “lauderhill” soil by USGS. Thats basically MUCK. Although I do agree that certain portions of the property can be muck most of the properties here were raised by using limestone fill taken from the lakes. I experimented with a few different selections and have settled on sandy loom as my soil type.