I just installed my zones and backup preventer. I went with Rachio Gen3, 2 Orbit [3-Valve Inline Manifold Assembly](http://3-Valve Inline Manifold Assembly) and Orbit Anti-Siphon Valve
My only problem is my backup preventer keeps spilling over. I’ve read a lot about this and people say this is normal. Some say you don’t need one. My problem is I am going up hill from my water source. Below it what my setup looks like.
My questions are.
- Should I remove the backup preventer or keep it and figure out what is going on?
- Did I do my setup correctly. Should I change anything?
Would love some feedback. Here is what it currently looks like.
So the anti siphon valve you have is meant to directly feed water into a sprinkler zone — not as a backflow valve for an entire system. See https://www.irrigationtutorials.com/irrigation-backflow-preventers/#asv
“1. Never install an anti-siphon valve upstream of any other valve. If you do the anti-siphon valve will not prevent backflow and you have wasted your money buying it. (Exception: drain valves are OK installed after an anti-siphon valve.)
2. Never use an anti-siphon valve as a backflow preventer installed on the mainline upstream of other valves. This is a common error that a lot of people make. I have heard employees at home improvement stores recommend installing an anti-siphon valve as a backflow preventer with standard electric globe valves installed after it for each of the sprinkler zones. I have seen many contractors do this also. Both should know better! Don’t you do it!!! It will damage the anti-siphon valve. Plus the anti-siphon valve will not prevent backflow when installed this way. You are no better off than if you didn’t use a backflow preventer at all. (Contractors and suppliers: before you flame me for being wrong, do some research. Don’t embarrass yourself! Most anti-siphon valves have a warning on the box or in the installation instructions about this. Just read the instructions!)”
Others will chime in but I’d recommend using a different type of back flow preventer — the irrigation tutorial webpage has a decision tree on deciding what type to install.
https://www.irrigationtutorials.com/irrigation-backflow-preventers/#how
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Thx. So just get rid off it. Got it. Anything else I should know or change with my setup?
Like @Kubisuro said, that is an anti-siphon valve, not a backflow preventer and not meant to be used in front of other zone valves. You can install one of two ways.
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Leave the existing zone valves as they are and replace the anti-siphon valve with a backflow preventer. This will be a larger brass unit, and if you go with a Febco unit, you might be able to get it to fit close to the footprint of the current anti-siphon valve. The Zurn/Wilkins usually have a larger footprint.
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Forgo a true backflow device, but you will need to replace all the zone valves with the anti-siphon valves. The thing I don’t like about using anti-siphon valves is that they spill a small amount of water out each and every time the zone runs. Anytime I have seen an install using anti-siphon valves, the area around it is constantly damp. Being that this is near your foundation, I’d stay away from this option, IMHO.
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@tmcgahey and @Kubisuro How does this setup look? Am I missing anything?
Ummm, is the top valve being used as a master valve? Right now it doesn’t look like you have any type of backflow prevention in place.
Like I said earlier, your options are to:
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Leave the lower 3 valves in place, and replace the upper anti-siphon valve with a true backflow device. The Febco might be a better option in your case because it has a smaller footprint than the Zurn/Wilkins unit.
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Replace the lower 3 solenoid valves with anti-siphon valves and remove the upper valve (assuming that is an anti-siphon and not a master valve).
Without completely repiping your whole setup there, I’d recommend the first option as I think you could probably fit that closely into the existing footprint.
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@chadholdorf, @tmcgahey If you are going uphill from your water source in the picture, a pressure vacuum breaker (PVB) would be lower than the highest head. A PVB has to be at least twelve inches higher than the highest head because it can’t take any back pressure.
You’re going to have to install a double check assembly (DCA) or preferably a reduced pressure principle device (RPZ).
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Good catch! Totally missed the uphill part! I’m a flatlander, so not the first thing on my mind…