I wanted to work on my non-lawn zones earlier, but had to take a break as I had family in town. Finally had a chance to work on them again.
I’ve started with what I think is the simplest zone – it’s just two fixed-spray nozzles watering two beds of annuals (currently wax-leaf begonias) – My biggest concern was that how I had it defined was going to have the zone watering everyday, and still not keeping up – the ET was going to be bigger that the watering on a daily basis!
Here’s what I started with:
And how one of the predictions looked:
I took a couple of hours and set up a test zone (one that I’m not using) and tried to adjust just one factor at a time to see if I could get it to get the irrigation inches up to something that would match the Crop ET. My thought was that my lawn is doing great, but when it waters, it often puts down 2-3 times the amount of ET. And I’m thinking that water deeper, water less often is still good logic for annuals. Does my logic seem sound? Any thoughts?
I didn’t want to set the MAD higher than 25% based on some doc that I found online, where they recommended 20-25% MAD for drip systems with non-lawn plants. I played with the coefficient and quickly learned that it only effects frequency and not duration. So I left the coefficient set at 80%. I tried 3 or 4 different AW’s and found they had less impact on duration than root depth. I finally ended up changing only the root depth (set to 5 inches) and the MAD - (took it from 20-25%). That brought my irrigation up to .21 inches and I’m thinking that this is going to look better? (and as luck would have it, I haven’t gotten to test it out yet because our 20% chance of rain two nights in a row turned into good storms, and I haven’t needed to water at all! The rain sensor just deactivated today!)
Any thoughts? Am I on the right track?
Then on to tackle the tougher ones!