I was wondering about that but in the help section it doesn’t say that. Or am I misreading it??
How does Smart Cycle affect drip zones and turf zones?
“Smart Cycle has been enhanced and is now smarter than ever!
Previously, if there were any drip zones in a schedule, Smart Cycle would not be applied to any zones in the schedule (even turf zones), even if it was enabled. Now, Smart Cycle can be applied to just the turf zones in a schedule, even if there are also drip zones in the same schedule. This means that you may begin to see Smart Cycle applied to your schedules when it wasn’t previously.”
All this on one zone?! How are you even remotely coming up with a PR that works for all those types nozzles/emitters?
As for what to set at to force CS…switch to spray heads, set the “inches per hour” to whatever you are choosing as a PR for this mixed zone, and set the slope to max. This will force a CS for sure…
So what types of vegetation is in this zone? Do you have a big mix of vegetation in there as well?
I guess we can work to tweak some settings a bit to get things closer…Do you happen to know what brand/model all the nozzles, emitters, etc. are? Being all one zone, are you against putting in a little bit of work swapping some nozzles out to try and balance the system a little better?
There are two maples, or so I’ve been told they are. One is a short bush like plant, the other is a tree with maybe a 4 inch wide trunk. I have drip lines Around those as well.
There are these shrubs that have dripline I think.
Your first photo shows a tree that is surface rooting. That means it is getting it’s water from high up, either at the top of the soil or within a few inches. If it’s allowed to continue doing this it will eventually (years) rip up that concrete at the left and bottom of the photo creating a safety hazard for pedestrians, cyclists, etc.
In California.
Land of the Litigators.
I hate to say this, but you’d be ahead to split up this system. Yes, it’s a lot of work and will cost you some $$. But dropping that tree and replacing the damaged concrete will make that cost look utterly miniscule.
If you do take that route, it would be the ideal time to split the turf off of the drips & bubblers as well—and to drop some 3-5’ deep 6" round holes around that tree to get it to root deeper (line like vertical French drains, fill with sand and gravel).